Acclimatization
Mount Damavand ranks alongside Kilimanjaro in terms of toughness, ascent to the summit is technically easy but physically a challenging hike, the main challenge of climbing is acclimatization and the fact that the air gets thinner with less oxygen as you gain altitude, so in order to increases you chance of success and decrease the risk of AMS and enjoy a safe hike to the summit, it is essential to be acclimatized to high altitude or get ready for new climate conditions and environment in Mt Damavand .
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How to Acclimatize ?
There are different ways for acclimatization , I recommend this one which we have tested it successfully many times in our tours for foreign clients, and I believe is one of the best for foreign climbers and works good in a short form itinerary.
Day 1 - Arrival Day + Acclimatization
In the first day of itinerary and your arrival day in Iran , to get rid of pollution of Tehran , go by car directly from airport to Camp1 Polour altitude 2270m in Polour village, just rest and sleep the night there for acclimatization, no climbing or hard activity, and no pollution of Tehran weather.This is the best starting point and resting place for climbers who intend to climb Mt Damavand from calsic south route or west route .
Day 2 - Ascend to Camp3 + Acclimatization
In the second day of your itinerary go by car from camp1 to Camp2 - Base , and by 4 to 5 hours slow walk go to Camp3 - Bargah Sevom , rest the night in camp3 for more acclimatization.
Remember that Camp2 - Base camp is not suitable for use in summer, because it is too crowded and too dirty, for acclimatization you better use camp1 or Camp3 only. See also Warning
Day 3 - Summit Day
In the third day, you are almost ready for a safe climb to the summit.
Day4 - Spare Day for Acclimatization ( or Bad Weather )
In case you need more time for acclimatization, in the third day you can ascend to nearby heights and descend to camp3 Bargahe Sevom and stay one more night in camp3 , and go for the summit in forth day.
Acclimatisation
Read More in: Mountain Sickness
Usually, these unpleasant effects of lack of oxygen wear off over two to three days, particularly if no further ascent is made. Once the body has acclimatised in this way, further gradual height gain is possible although symptoms may recur at any time. The question "How high, how fast?" has no absolute answer because of individual variation, but it is reasonable for healthy people of any age to travel rapidly to 3500m, though many will develop some degree of AMS after arrival. It is unwise to travel much above 3500m immediately from sea level.
Above 3500m, the speed of further height gain should be gradual and we advise no more than a 300m increase in sleeping altitude per day (with a rest day every third day) and spending at least a week above 3500m before sleeping at 5000m. This does not mean you can’t ascend more than 300m in a day (eg. to cross a pass or attempt a summit), as long as you descend again before sleeping. The highest altitude where man lives permanently is about 5500m (18,000ft) but on mountaineering expeditions or a trek, residence for several weeks around 6000m (20,000ft) is quite possible and at these altitudes one should feel entirely well when acclimatised, being limited only by breathlessness on exertion.
© UIAA Mountain Medicine Centre
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Acclimatization
